Not to be outdone by the mature California bubbly that started off the Wine Experience seminars, Saturday’s lineup began with a 16-year-old grand cru white Burgundy from a historic house: Domaine Faiveley.
Introducing domaine owner Erwan Faiveley, Wine Spectator senior editor and Burgundy taster Bruce Sanderson remembered how the seventh-generation vintner “immediately made his presence felt” after joining the winery in 2005, when he was only 25. Presenting his Bâtard-Montrachet 2008 (95 points), Erwan reflected on the changes that have taken place under his leadership.
When he joined the domaine, its “only great white wine” was the famous Corton-Charlemagne. That changed in 2008, an outstanding year for Chardonnay in the Côte de Beaune, and Faiveley’s first vintage making Bâtard-Montrachet and Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet. Erwan noted how the 2008 Bâtard was somewhat slow to evolve out of the gate, but has stayed at its peak for many years.
With his sister, Eve, who joined Faiveley a decade ago, Erwan has steered the domaine toward estate bottlings rather than négociant wines. The winery and cellar were renovated in 2018, and next year—Faiveley’s 200th anniversary—the vineyards will be certified organic. Earlier this year, the domaine acquired famed California Pinot Noir winery Williams-Selyem.
Tasting the Bâtard-Montrachet, Erwan noted that just two months ago, he finally paid off the loan he took out to acquire a parcel of the Bâtard-Montrachet grand cru. He fondly remembered that the wine was served at his wedding and quipped that, with cheese, it’s a “stairway to heaven”—an affectionate wink to Sanderson’s love of rock ’n’ roll.
As he took the stage for the next seminar, senior editor James Molesworth emphasized the rarity of the Faiveley white: “Only four cases were imported, and you guys just drank six!” The crowd showed its appreciation with hearty applause.
