A compelling introduction to the Yeatman, situated in the historic center of the Port wine district on the south bank of the Douro River, is its breathtaking view overlooking the city of Vila Nova de Gaia and the water. The hotel and accompanying restaurant, owned by Taylor Fladgate CEO Adrian Bridge and opened in August 2010, is named for one of the founding families of the Port trade from the 1800s. Since the outset, the idea was to showcase the best wines from all of Portugal and to put Porto on the map for travelers and visitors. The very best producers of Portuguese wines regularly host dinners and tastings there.
Chef Ricardo Costa has been crafting the menu from the start, focusing on traditional Portuguese ingredients and dishes, treating them with contemporary flair and innovative techniques. The seasonal tasting menu leans slightly toward fish from Portugal’s coast and other fresh, local produce; however, Costa considers the suckling pig with potato, lettuce and creamed corn to be one of his signature dishes. Wine director Elisabete Fernandes enjoys pairing this dish with Quinta do Crasto Vinha da Ponte 2016.
The wine list comprises 1,600 selections—more than 90 percent Portuguese table wines, Port and Madeira— and is updated monthly. Inventory is procured by Fernandes, who seeks out wines through various tastings, new releases and launches. She also maintains a close relationship with the hotel’s wine partners, including every major Port producer from Croft to Van Zeller, as well as table wine producers such as Cartuxa and Anselmo Mendes. These relationships allow her access to rare and exclusive editions from their cellars.
Fernandes has been part of the Yeatman’s wine team since the hotel opened and became wine director in 2021. She enjoys pairing the Portuguese flavors with local wines but also likes to mix things up. Her knowledge and passion are evident from the complexity of the wine list, ensuring a harmonious pairing and an exciting dining experience.
“Our wine pairing philosophy is to showcase Portugal through our wines—its wine regions, styles and grape varieties,” says Fernandes. She matches one of their most popular (and most challenging to pair with) dishes, red mullet with daikon radish, kimchi and cauliflower, flawlessly with Quinta das Bágeiras Pai Abel 2021. “We showcase the incredible range of Portuguese wine references, from large to boutique producers, rare wines to new releases, in a very eclectic offering, guaranteeing that our wine selection is on par with the world’s most distinguished wine-producing countries.”
Above all, wanting to create a truly one-of-a-kind experience for diners is at the heart of everything and instilled in everyone working at the restaurant. “Training and preparing the teams to put the client first in order to guarantee a unique and memorable experience is also very important,” says Fernandes. “The sommelier’s role involves reading and interpreting the customer, adapting the restaurant’s wine selection to the customer’s style and occasion, and heightening the gastronomic experience whilst respecting and creating balance with chef Costa’s creations.”
Price per bottle on the list averages $55 to $110, but more often than not, customers opt for one of the pairing programs: The Prime Selection ($270) and the Yeatman Selection ($135) each offer six glasses to go with the multicourse prix fixe menu ($270). There is also a Non-Alcoholic Selection available ($96). Several factors are considered in establishing the pricing, according to Claire Aukett, public relations manager. “As a wine hotel, we try to maintain accessible prices for our customers, taking into account the cost price of the wine, the rarity or scarcity of the wine and respecting brand positioning, both the hotel’s and the wine producers’.”
Aukett describes the clientele as a spectrum: “We receive guests of many different nationalities, styles, ages and spending power. The common thread is their fascination for gastronomy and the experience that a gastronomic restaurant can provide.” The customer’s preference is always considered when recommending something to them. “This is another reason why we tend to sell a lot of pairings, as the selection is made for them [to match the dishes], and our customers can thus explore the styles and diversity of Portuguese wines from our extensive wine list and by the glass.” While the pairings are the biggest hit, some expensive bottles have also been poured, including Quinta do Noval Nacional 1963 ($9,416), Taylor’s Single Harvest 1896 ($6,634) and Blandy’s MCDXIX ($7,597), the latter a commemorative edition. Because no meal here would be complete without a finale of Port or Madeira.
The Yeatman
Rua do Choupelo,Vila Nova de Gaia, Portugal
Telephone: (351) 220-133-100
Website: the-yeatman-hotel.com
