As I worked my way down the Left Bank—from St.-Estèphe and Pauillac to St.-Julien and Margaux—I made sure to stop in at Château Cantemerle in the Haut-Médoc. There’s been buzz about the renovation here, and for good reason. When I pulled up, I had to ask myself, Is this the place? From the road, the estate’s new incarnation is unrecognizable.
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