Spring and Easter are all about rebirth and renewal, and one cookbook that embodies the season is Makenna Held’s newest release, Mostly French (Published by Simon & Schuster), a book inspired by the lifestyle and cuisine of Provence, by food that has a true sense of place.
“I wanted to write a book that highlighted modern French food and gave homage to how I cook for my family and friends. I was inspired by the French Riviera, of course, and by the markets in France. I felt moved by the countryside and the purveyors I visit weekly,” says Held.
In 2016, Held bought Julia Child’s summer home, La Pitchoune, sight unseen, and has been immersing herself in the Provençal lifestyle ever since. Feeling a kinship with Child as a fellow Smith alumna, she has rejuvenated the old house and started a new business, now operating La Pitchoune as a cooking school for locals and tourists alike. Mostly French, written and photographed solely at La Pitchoune, is a beautiful ode to Provence and outdoor entertaining.
“Entertaining in spring is a celebration of seasonality for me. It really is a moment where food shines through and being in the kitchen is a joy,” says Held. “Spring is my favorite season for cooking. I love watching produce begin to pop off at the markets. I love watching things slowly eke their way back in after the winter rest.”
Held’s recipe for lemon and sumac roast chicken is a lovely main course for your Easter table, or any spring occasion. It is impressive and delicious, yet easy to make and won’t have you working away in the kitchen and missing out on time with your guests. The preparation is short, and a spatchcocked bird means less time in the oven and more even cooking of both light and dark meat. “Don’t be afraid to season heartily and let those birds get nice and crisp,” adds Held.
When it comes to wine, this dish is begging for a dry rosé. “Rosé, while typically [for] summer, is a great spring wine. I am always looking towards the next vintage of rosé when spring hits,” says Held. “I love pairing this dish with a dry rosé. The cherry notes of the sumac pair nicely with the complementary stone fruit notes of many a Provençal rosé.”
Our editors’ list of recommended rosés hail from Provence, the Southern Rhône and Languedoc. All show impressive concentration, with profiles that are more savory and textured than their pale pink counterparts, with some of the wines even meant to age for a few years. The wines are full of flavor, with red fruit, earth and spice notes that pair wonderfully with the citrus and sumac elements in the roast chicken. Enjoy these delicious offerings from Southern France alongside your Easter feast this year and you won’t be disappointed.
Roast Chicken with Lemon and Sumac
Excerpted from Mostly French: Recipes from a Kitchen in Provence. Copyright © 2025 Makenna Held. Photography by Emma Lee. Reproduced by permission of Simon Element, an imprint of Simon & Schuster. All rights reserved.
Ingredients
- 2 chickens, 3 to 4 pounds each, spatchcocked*
- 2 lemons, sliced into thin rounds
- 2 yellow onions, cut into thick slices
- 6 garlic cloves, smashed under a knife and peeled
- 1 tablespoon ground sumac
- Olive oil
- Kosher salt
- Rosemary sprigs
- Freshly ground black pepper, for finishing
*You can ask your local butcher to spatchcock your chicken for you, or use these handy tips to do it yourself!
Preparation
1. Preheat the oven to its highest setting, around 500° to 550°F.
2. On a sheet tray, create a bed of lemons, onions and garlic. Sprinkle with the sumac. Lay the chickens on the bed of aromatics, skin side up. Drizzle olive oil over the chickens and sprinkle one teaspoon of salt over each chicken. Top the mixture with a few rosemary sprigs.
3. Put the chickens in the oven, quickly! Let’s not lose heat! Reduce the temperature to 500°F. Roast for 15 minutes. Reduce the temperature to 450°F and cook for 20 minutes more, or until the chicken is crispy and the legs wiggle easily in the joints, for a total of 35 minutes. If you want to check for doneness with a thermometer, insert an instant-read thermometer in the thickest part of the breast—it should read 165°F.
4. Transfer to serving platters or a chopping board. Let stand for about 5 minutes and add pepper to finish. Carve the chickens and serve with the cooked aromatics and pan juices. Serves 8.
8 Dry Southern French Rosés
Here is a selection of outstanding and classic dry Southern French rosés from recently rated releases. More options can be found in our Wine Ratings Search.
CHÂTEAU PRADEAUX
Score: 92 | $24
WS Review: This is sturdy and fresh, with a copper hue and loads of blood orange, freshly squeezed tangerine and dried garrigue. White cherry and grapefruit notes chime in, bringing a pleasing bitterness to the densely built palate. Finely sculpted tannins guide the long, tangy finish, marked by a mint detail. Distinctive and delicious now, this rosé will age well for years to come. Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Grenache. Drink now through 2028.—Kristen Bieler
CLOS CIBONNE
Tibouren Côtes de Provence Rosé Cuvée Tradition 2022
Score: 91 | $47
WS Review: A distinctive, vibrant rosé, offering notes of tangerine zest, mango and orchard fruit cut with salt and mineral accents, plus flecks of spices and vanilla cream on the rich palate. This delicious version's suppleness is neatly reined in by bitter tannins on the grippy, clean and long finish. Tibouren and Grenache. Drink now through 2030.—K.B.
CLOS STE.-MAGDELEINE
Score: 91 | $29
WS Review: Built around a mineral spine, this elegant rosé has mellowed with an extra year of age, imparting notes of dried hay and chamomile to the flavors of lemon zest, apple and white cherry. A salty version, offering a brioche note that adds richness to the smoky finish, with a subtle tug of white tea tannins driving the length. Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvèdre and Syrah. Drink now through 2027.—K.B.
CHÂTEAU PRADEAUX
Score: 91 | $32
WS Review: With its dark orange-magenta hue, this hefty rosé is not for casual poolside sipping. Gutsy in feel, with layers of bergamot, blood orange, rooibos tea and dried herbs. Though this is tightly coiled and structured, allowing a year of bottle age will allow this to achieve peak harmony and integration. Distinctive and well-made. Mourvèdre and Cinsault. Drink now through 2030.—K.B.
DOMAINE DE L'OLIVETTE
Score: 91 | $26
WS Review: A weighty, substantial version, with time in glass revealing grilled orange and juicy peach flavors. Creamy and rich in feel, with white mocha notes adding a sensual dimension and herbal savoriness driving freshness. Bitter quinine and singed garrigue notes mark the weighty yet elegant finish. Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Grenache. Drink now through 2028.—K.B.
LES VIGNERONS DE TAVEL
Score: 90 | $22
WS Review: There's good freshness to this rosé, with a waft of smoke that blows off to reveal rose oil and crushed pomegranate, powered by blood orange acidity. Creamy in feel, with a nicely unadorned palate. Balanced and well-meshed. Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Clairette and Picpoul. Drink now.—K.B.
DOMAINE MABY
Score: 90 | $20
WS Review: Mouth-filling and rich yet shows refinement, with a suave beam of dried cherry and orange tea notes firmed up by chalky tannins. Dense and multifaceted, offering great energy and rounded edges throughout the persistent, reined-in finish. Drink now through 2027.—K.B.
RAVAILLE FRÈRES
Pic St.-Loup Rosé Héritage 2022
Score: 89 | $22
WS Review: For those looking to move outside the Provence paradigm, this brawny, copper-hued rosé is full in body and chewy in structure, showing red currant and singed orange peel flavors, with rose oil high tones and a deep earthiness. Cool and different, offering a menthol note on the long finish. Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache and Cinsault. Drink now.—K.B.
