The holidays are stacked high with treats—dimpled peanut butter blossoms, forests of Christmas tree sugar cookies, melt-in-mouth shortbreads—but adding one more can’t hurt. For a sophisticated, boozy, dinner-party indulgence, whip up this frozen eggnog soufflé, created by one of the United States’ leading chefs, Patrick O’Connell of Wine Spectator Grand Award-winning the Inn at Little Washington in Virginia.
Every day feels festive to guests at a place like the Inn at Little Washington, a hotel and fine dining restaurant decked out with eclectic furnishings—swathed in florals, fringe and elaborate tapestries—where every dinner is a bit of a show. O’Connell opened the Inn at Little Washington in 1978, renovating a 1950s mechanic’s garage and gas station into a dining sensation and an early leader in the farm-to-table movement, highlighting ingredients from local Virginia growers. The Inn has since expanded across a collection of historic buildings within the small, rural town of Little Washington.
Amid all the prestige and honors, O’Connell’s sense of humor has continued to shine through, with tongue-in-cheek dishes such as the “Tin of Sin,” filled with Chesapeake Bay crab and royal kaluga caviar. That playfulness comes through clearly in this eggnog soufflé, served frozen rather than baked.
“People are often having gatherings in their house, and they want to be part of it—they don’t want to be stuck in the kitchen,” O’Connell says. “This particular dessert is festive and has all the flavors of Christmas, yet can be made several days in advance. It could be made in miniature and can be part of a large holiday buffet, or it can be one course on a very formal, elegant Christmas menu.”
This eggnog soufflé can be a dazzling dessert all by itself—presented in one 10- or 12-inch ramekin—or served individually as a palate cleanser before rounds of milk and cookies. “Usually, you eat too much at this time of year. I always find ice cream in any form to be incredibly welcome and refreshing,” says O’Connell. “I always crave it—halfway through eating a main course, I begin to think about what I want for dessert.”
For a pairing, O’Connell believes nothing is better for the holidays than a dram of Scotch. (For top-scoring Scotch, check out the latest reviews from Whisky Advocate.) At the Inn, O’Connell’s team has been serving Macallan 1978—one of only three bottles in the world—which he believes makes the perfect match for a cool, creamy and lightly spiced dessert. “If you were doing this dish as a principal singular dessert, it would be a rare opportunity to make it all about the spirit that you were serving with it,” suggests O’Connell.
With a restaurant cellar filled with 16,000 bottles, O’Connell thinks this frozen eggnog soufflé would also work wonderfully with a Madeira, but different styles of Port would be delicious as well. The particular nuttiness of Madeira complements the spice of the eggnog, without being overwhelmingly sweet. “I think every household should have a bottle or two of Madeira in the back cupboard,” says O’Connell. “It goes well with this and really any Christmas dessert.”
To enjoy with the recipe below, Wine Spectator editors have recommended nine dessert wines well suited to winter.
Patrick O’Connell’s Frozen Eggnog Soufflé
Materials for the Molds
- 12 four-ounce porcelain or glass soufflé cups
- 2 sheets of parchment paper or waxed paper
- Scotch tape
Ingredients for the Soufflés
- 1 cup sugar
- 1/2 cup water
- 6 egg yolks
- 1/2 tablespoon freshly grated nutmeg
- 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- 1/4 cup bourbon
- 2 tablespoons brandy
- 2 tablespoons rum
- 2 cups heavy cream
Garnishes
- 1 cup roughly chopped toasted pecans
- Freshly grated nutmeg
Preparation for the Molds
1. Cut the parchment paper (or waxed paper) lengthwise into 2-inch strips.
2. Wrap a paper strip around the outside of the soufflé cup to make a collar extending 1 1/2 inches above the top edge of the dish. Use Scotch tape to secure the paper.
3. Repeat with the remaining ramekins.
Preparation for the Soufflés
1. In a small saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the sugar with 1/2 cup of water. Bring to a boil and continue cooking until the sugar thickens and registers 240 to 246 degrees F on a candy thermometer (the “softball” stage). Remove from heat.
2. Meanwhile, place the egg yolks, nutmeg and cinnamon in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a wire whisk attachment. Turn the mixer on and slowly whip the egg yolks on medium speed until they begin to thicken and form a ribbon. Slowly and carefully pour the hot sugar syrup onto the yolks in a thin stream with the motor running. When all of the sugar has been added, continue to whip the yolks on high speed until they are room temperature and very thick. Add the bourbon, brandy and rum, and beat until just combined.
3. Place the heavy cream in a medium-sized mixing bowl. Beat with a wire whisk until it forms soft peaks when the whisk is lifted from the bowl. Using a rubber spatula, gently fold the whipped cream into the egg yolk mixture.
4. Divide this mixture among the ramekins, filling them almost to the top of the paper collars.
5. Freeze at least 6 hours or overnight.
To Serve
1. Remove the parchment-paper collars and roll the sides of the souffles in toasted pecans.
2. Store in the freezer until ready to serve.
3. Grate a sprinkling of nutmeg on each soufflé just before serving.
Seven Dessert Wines for the Holidays, Picked by Our Editors
Note: The following list is a selection of outstanding and very good wines from recently rated releases. More dessert wines can be found in our Wine Ratings Search here.
JUSTINO'S MADEIRA WINES
Sercial Madeira Broadbent Colheita Single Cask O 076 1998
Score: 94 | $124/500ml
WS Review: This offers lovely cut from the start, unfurling white peach, dried mango, green tea and white sesame notes backed by nervy zip that pulls everything through the lengthy, pinpoint finish. Drink now.—James Molesworth
NIEPOORT
Score: 93 | $52
WS Review: This is inviting, with gently warmed morello and maraschino cherry fruit mixed with cinnamon, date and red licorice notes that show good persistence through the finish, which offers a sandalwood echo. Drink now.—J.M.
REAL COMPANHIA VELHA
Late Bottled Port Royal Oporto 2020
Score: 93 | $24
WS Review: This red has matured into an elegant and reserved expression of LBV, with singed cedar and alder hints streaking through a core of gently mulled plum and blackberry fruit. The warm fruitcake finish shows a lightly mulled edge. Drink now through 2032.—J.M.
CHURCHILL
Tawny Port Broadbent Aged 10 Years NV
Score: 92 | $40
WS Review: Warm fig, cocoa and wood spice notes are mixed in with Brazil nut and walnut husk hints, providing a decidedly autumnal feel. Drink now.—J.M.
DOW
Score: 92 | $30
WS Review: A ripe, forward and flattering style, with boysenberry and blackberry pâte de fruit notes melding with black licorice through the succulent, open finish. Drink now through 2030.—J.M.
ALCHEMY WINES
Tawny Port Blackett 10 Years NV
Score: 91 | $36
WS Review: An elegant red, with singed blood orange, sandalwood, praline and date notes laced with a subtle thread of hazelnut husk. Touriga Nacional, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Amarela and Tinto Cão. Drink now.—J.M.
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