A New Chianti Classico?

Consorzio del Marchio Storico Chianti Classico, the wine producers' association for the region, is lobbying the Italian government to change the blends for Chianti Classico DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita), the country's highest wine designation.

According to the proposal, all Chianti Classico reds would be a minimum of 80 percent Sangiovese instead of the current 75 percent. In addition, white grapes would be completely eliminated from the blend requirements, as well as the use of the indigenous red variety, Canaiolo Nero. The remaining 20 percent of the blend would be made out of an optional selection of red varieties such as Canaiolo Nero, Colorino, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

"We think that this will improve the quality of our wines and make them capable of aging longer," said Giuseppe Liberatore, president of the Consorzio Chianti Classico. The regulation would come into effect in 2005,giving producers who still use white grapes time to adapt to the modified regulation.

Not all Chianti Classico producers are happy about the proposed changes. "I don't like the idea of dropping Canaiolo from the regulations," said Paolodi Marchi, a well-respected winemaker and owner of Isole e Olena. "Sure, we could use Canaiolo in the 20 percent other grapes, but it is a traditional grape variety of the region, and dropping it from the regulations entirely is not right. It just benefits people who want to use more Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon in their Chianti Classicos."

The last time the regulations for Chianti Classico DOCG were changed was in 1996. The modification allowed producers to use 100 percent Sangiovese in their wines. The minimum percentage of Sangiovese was 75 percent. In addition to Sangiovese, other grape varieties that could be added included up to 10 percent of Canaiolo Nero and up to 6 percent of Trebbiano Toscano or Malvasia Bianca, both white varieties. The percentage of other red varieties, such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, was also raised to 15 percent.